Scribbles Paints and Clear Cure Goo Hydro were used to make the 3D head on this Perch Fry Streamer.
Scribbles on your fly tying bench are awesome. No, I’m not talking about what your children, or in my case, grand children, did with their crayons. I’m talking about those fun little bottles of fabric paint you can buy at the craft store. But don’t let your little munchkins get at them unsupervised or you will have a mess.
Recently, I have undertaken the daunting task of trying to catch walleye on the fly. As of yet, I have not had the honor of hooking one of these elusive fish. But I have had more fun at the bench creating perch-looking streamers and jig flies than I ever thought I would. Using Scribbles Paints and Clear Cure Goo Hydro, you can create a good looking fly. By layering, you can create a great 3D look. As a side bonus, the trout have loved them, so my efforts have not gone in vain. They have given me great entertainment while I still wait for my first walleye.
Perch Jig-Head Fly
These flies and jigs are not (at least for me) a quick tie. You need to let the paint dry at least 20 minutes before applying the Hydro. But if you enjoy being creative and making flies using your imagination, give them a try. You’ll be surprised how fun it is and how amazing your flies look.
On a final note, any advice on ‘eyes on the fly would be greatly appreciated. Now get at that vice and have some fun.
Perch Fry Streamer
Ron Watt’s Angora Goat Streamer – We recently had a question regarding this killer streamer pattern, so in this week’s post we decided to share the recipe.
Ron wants to be clear, though, that the basic pattern originated from Denny Rickards’ Seal Bugger (traditionally a still-water pattern). Seal, as a fly tying material, is no longer available, but Angora goat hair is a great substitute. Ron further customized the pattern with rubber legs and schlappen.
Ron Watt’s Angora Goat Streamer
Hook: MFC 3XL streamer/nymph style 7027 (size is your choice – I like sizes 6 through 2)
Cone: Black nickel (sized for the hook)
Leadwire: 0.025 or 0.020
Gold wire: Small
Dubbing: Angora goat (purple, black, olive, burnt orange are my favorites)
Tail: Marabou (mix and match with dubbing)
Hackle: Soft hackle or schlappen (Whiting bugger packs are good, too), assorted colors
Thread: 610 unithread or 70 ultrathread
- Pinch barb and slide cone head onto hook shank. Start thread behind cone head and cover entire shank.
- Wrap lead around 2/3rds of hook shank, ending it right behind the cone. Trap lead with thread (super glue lead lightly to keep it from rolling). Take thread to end of lead toward hook bend.
- Tie in gold wire. I like to leave a tag and double it back to keep it from pulling out.
- Tie in marabou tail. I wet it with saliva and mark it the length of the hook shank. A little longer is ok, but don’t get carried away. I anchor it down in the 1/3 section and cut excess right behind the lead. Wrap thread just enough to make a smooth transition up onto the lead.
- Take thread all the way to the front behind the cone head. Pull out enough thread to make a dubbing loop. Attach your loop spinner and trap thread all the way back to the back of the hook. Take bobbin back to cone once loop is formed.
- Pinch off angora goat dubbing and place it loosely and horizontal to your dubbing loop thread. It will take almost 6 inches of dubbing for a size 4. Take a few spins and stop to even up your dubbing inside your loop. Finish twisting your dubbing loop. You want to end up with a very bushy dubbing loop with fibers on both sides.
- Wrap dubbing forward, stroking the fibers back on each wrap. Take it all the way to the cone and tie off loop. Take wraps over the loop then behind it to trap it. Brush angora fibers out with wire brush or tooth brush (wire brush works best).
- Tie in soft hackle (or schlappen) behind the cone by its butt end. First wrap behind the cone, take it all the way around, trapping it on itself. Evenly space wraps back like you would on a wooly bugger. You need to pick the angora with a pick or needle so it remains free and not trapped under the hackle. Wrap the gold wire forward over the hackle. Moving the wire side to side as you’re going over the fly helps to keep from trapping hackle and angora.
- Tie off the wire, again trapping it between wraps. Bend wire back and forth to break it off. Make sure you’ve trapped it well or you’ll lose it and that’s a bummer. Whip finish and cement. Lightly brush out fly one more time and you’re done.
You can also tie in rubber legs, two to a side if you want. I personally prefer them for my river patterns. Tie the first set in 1/2 way, the second right behind the cone. Tie these in before dubbing.